The morning air in Victoria Harbour (Victoria, BC, Canada) was sharp as our catamaran, Wild 4 Whales, cast off with Eagle Wing Whale Watching Tours at 09:30 today. Onboard, we were in superb hands with our Skipper, Brett, with whom I had the privilege of sharing the bridge, and our exceptionally talented naturalists, Jennifer, Molly, and Jo Anne. Pushing out into the open waters, our vessel cut through a modest gathering of Surf Scoters resting lightly on the swell. Further along, near the Haystock Islets, the water suddenly came alive. A dense bait ball had formed beneath the surface, a swirling sphere of small fish forced upward by subterranean predators, creating an absolute feeding frenzy at the surface. Seabirds descended from all directions to exploit the chaos. Amongst the flurry, we separated three classic gull species: Glaucous-winged Gull, American Herring Gull, and Western Gull. The real prize, however, was a striking adult Heermann’s Gull. Its smart, distinctive plumage stood out effortlessly against the grey backdrop, boasting a charcoal body, a crisp white head, and a brilliant crimson bill that looked painted on. Sharing this rich patch of water were generous numbers of Common Guillemots alongside a few low-flying Rhinoceros Auklets.

Rhinoceros Auklet

Setting a course for Race Rocks, the energy on deck shifted instantly as we jammed in on a vagrant immature Red-footed Booby. To spot this tropical traveler so far north is extraordinarily rare, prompting immediate conversation about whether its anomalous appearance is linked to shifting ocean currents from recent El Niño events or the broader impacts of the Climate Crisis altering marine distributions.

Red-footed Booby

Resting alongside the bird on the rugged granite were three haul-out mammal species. Differentiating them took a careful eye, from the small, speckled, dog-like faces of the Harbour Seal to the massive pinnipeds lining the rocks. The Steller’s Sea-lion dominated the landscape with its immense, pale tan body and deep roaring, while the darker, sleeker California Sea-lion showed off its characteristic raised forehead crest. Historically, these haul-outs were populated almost entirely by migrating males, but recently, local naturalists have noted a fascinating shift as females and young pups are increasingly recorded using the rocks.

Surrounding the islets, at least twelve Humpback Whales put on a breathtaking display, lunge feeding through the plankton-rich tides, slapping their massive tails, rolling gracefully, and lifting their immense flukes high before deep dives. In a rare treat, we watched sea lions and Humpbacks actively interacting, darting around one another in what looked remarkably like mutual play.

Scanning the treacherous low rocks below the historic lighthouse, I managed to pick out two Rock Sandpipers, a pair of brilliant world life ticks for my ledger. The lighthouse itself adds a grand backdrop to the scene, built originally from granite cut and numbered in Scotland during the nineteenth century before being shipped out as ballast and reconstructed stone by stone on this wild outcrop.

Brandt’s Cormorant

We eventually moved westward to explore the quiet bays off East Sooke. Thousands of Common Guillemots carpeted the sea, their grown young still noisily begging their parents for fish. Above the treeline, an adult Bald Eagle sat motionless on a high perch, watching the water, while two Deer, almost certainly Black-tailed Deer, bolted up from the pebble beach into the thick brush.

Heermann’s Gull

The grand finale came as we tracked a pod of six Biggs Orca on the hunt around the Shelter Islands.  These mammal-eating transients live a nomadic lifestyle compared to resident pods, silently patrolling coastline contours in small, lethal groups, hunting seals and sea lions. A massive, towering dorsal fin signaled the presence of a dominant bull leading the charge, flanked by several smaller individuals navigating the currents with silent precision. Guided by Brett, Jennifer, Molly, and Jo Anne, it was an invigorating end to a truly fantastic day on the Pacific.