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Orgo-Life the new way to the future Advertising by AdpathwayAutumn in the garden is pumpkin time, and we are ready! Pumpkins and other squash are not immune to pests. Gardening expert Melissa Strauss discusses common pumpkin pests and how you can get rid of them.

Written by Melissa Strauss Horticulture review by Sarah Jay Last updated: September 19, 2025 | 2 min read
Growing pumpkins is a rewarding project in the summer and fall garden. Pumpkins are both wonderful ornamental fall decorations and delicious squash. Depending on the variety you choose, some are tastier or prettier than others.
Whether you’re growing them for the front porch, to carve with the kids, or to bake in a pie, they aren’t without pests. Several types of common garden pests are fond of pumpkins and other types of squash.
To mitigate the damage pests can cause to your crop, there are a few things you can do. Proper care is of utmost importance to grow a plant that can tolerate a bit of stress. Pumpkins love nutrients and dislike soggy soil. Resting your fruits on straw or cardboard is another great way to protect your pumpkins.
Let’s take a look at some of the most common pests to visit the pumpkin patch. Some of them are the same old offenders we see all year, and others are more unique. One thing is for sure: they all harm your pretty plants, so we want to get rid of them as fast as possible.
Black Kat Pumpkin

Sugar Pie Pumpkin

Jarrahdale Pumpkin

Squash Bugs

Squash bugs are at the top of the list because they are one of the most troublesome pumpkin pests. These members of the stink bug family are sap suckers that can deplete your plants quickly. They overwinter in debris and hatch in spring, but they can stick around well into the fall.
Because they feed heavily and reproduce quickly, these are extra destructive. They can devastate a squash plant if you don’t treat for them, so monitoring and early intervention are important.
Adults look much like other stink bugs. They are right around or slightly over a half inch long. They’re flat and shield-shaped and brownish gray in color. Nymphs are typically light green, but can also be gray, with black legs. Eggs are bronze and laid in tight clusters on the undersides of leaves.
Squash bugs live and overwinter in yard debris, so keep it cleaned up and far from the pumpkin patch. Rotating your squash crops is a good idea as well. You can use floating row covers to prevent adults from laying eggs, and inspect for eggs regularly.
Encourage natural predators like birds and beneficial insects. Foraging chickens are great at getting rid of these pumpkin pests. Trap boards are an effective way to trap them overnight, and then you can collect and destroy them in the morning.
Check the undersides of leaves for eggs and destroy them when you find them. You can simply scrape them off and smash them. Handpicking works for adults and nymphs when you see them. Drop them in a bucket of soapy water.
You can target the nymphs with organic sprays like neem oil or pyrethrin-based sprays. Use this one sparingly, as it can also harm beneficial insects that are important to the garden.
Squash Vine Borers

Squash vine borers are another exceptionally damaging pumpkin pest. Where squash bugs are sap-suckers, vine borers are more destructive. They tunnel through vines, cutting off water and nutrient flow. They can kill your pumpkin plants outright by causing vine death.
Adult vine borers are moths and are about a half inch long. They have a black body with orange markings and resemble wasps. They have two sets of wings. The front wings are metallic green, and the back wings are clear.
Squash vine borers lay single eggs rather than clusters, so they can be easy to miss. They are small, oval, and reddish-brown. You’ll find them near the base of plants.
The larvae are the damaging stage. These white, wrinkled caterpillars have brown heads and are about an inch long at maturity. These live inside the stems, out of view. Look for holes at the base of stems with their sawdust-like frass around the entry area; this is the clearest early warning sign.
Once the larvae get inside the stems, they are difficult to deal with, so stopping them before they get to that stage is helpful. The strategy is to monitor early and prevent them as much as possible.
Floating row covers are helpful to keep adults from laying eggs on your pumpkin vines. Once your plants flower, remove the row cover for pollinators to do their work. You can also wrap the base of stems with foil or fabric to block egg-laying.
Crop rotation, of course, is a good prevention practice. If you remember to check daily, you will often be able to find the eggs at the base of vines and leaf stalks.
Once they are inside the stems, it’s difficult to treat these pests. Remove any egg masses as you locate them. Sprays won’t reach them, so you’ll have to use mechanical methods. Look for the entry hole where the larva entered.
Make a clean cut along the length of the stem. You can use tweezers or a thin wire to either remove or kill the larva. After you remove the offender, bury that portion of the stem to protect it.
Aphids

Just about every gardener is familiar with aphids, and they are never a welcome sight. This pest can cause serious problems for your pumpkin patch if left unchecked. They pierce the leaves and stems with their mouths and suck sap, depleting the plant of water and nutrients.
Aphids also leave behind a sticky, sweet excrement that makes a good host for black sooty mold. This interferes with photosynthesis and affects the overall health of the plant.
Aphids are visible and slow-moving, soft-bodied insects. They are small, but usually feed in groups, so they are easy to identify. The adults are small, about 1/16 of an inch long, and pear-shaped. Their bodies are soft, and they can be yellow, green, brown, black, or pink.
You’ll find them in groups, commonly on stems or the undersides of leaves. They have small black legs and long antennae relative to their body size.
Look for curling or deformed new growth, as this is their preferred foliage for feeding on. Tender tissues are their favorite. You may also see them on blossoms.
It’s difficult to prevent them altogether. I’ve never had an aphid-free garden. You can make your plants more resistant by reducing stress. Give them the right nutrients and water regularly. This way, if aphids do pop up, the damage is minimal and your plants will easily recover. Just inspect regularly so that you catch them early on.
Aphids have lots of natural predators. If you provide nectar plants, you’ll have a good chance of attracting ladybugs, lace wings, and predatory wasps. These are great controls.
You can spray them off or wipe them off with an alcohol soaked cotton ball. Row covers help to prevent them, and many plants act as a repellent. Think about planting repellent companions like garlic, onions, and chives.
Cutworms

Cutworms are a sneaky, early-season pumpkin pest. They are the caterpillar stage of several species of moth, and they cut down seedlings, seemingly overnight. They will chew through the tender stems of your young plants and cause them to fall over.
Cutworms can take down a whole row of seedlings in a short time. For larger plants, they are less serious, but they prefer tender growth. They are more likely to feed on new foliage and buds on mature plants.
Adults are brownish-gray moths that lay eggs at night on weeds or in the soil near young plants. The larvae are fat, gray, smooth caterpillars that curl into a C shape when disturbed.
Cutworm moths like to lay their eggs on weeds and grasses. If you keep weeds and debris to a minimum, that goes a long way. Plant collars are helpful, and diatomaceous earth sprinkled around the base is also an effective deterrent.
Removing cutworms is about catching them while they are active. Go out at dusk or dawn with a flashlight, and you may see them on stems or at the base of pumpkin seedlings. If you notice damage from these pests, you can dig around the stem during the day and pull them out of the soil. Drop them in soapy water to kill them.
Disturbing the soil in general is effective, as that is where they spend their days. Lightly cultivating the soil exposes them to predators. They have plenty of natural predators in the garden.
Cucumber Beetles

Cucumber beetles are a small but highly destructive pumpkin pest. They not only feed on the plants, but can also transmit diseases. One serious disease they transmit is bacterial wilt. They can kill seedlings, but the most serious issue is the bacterial wilt.
Cucumber beetles are small insects. There are two primary types to keep an eye out for. The striped cucumber beetle is about 1/4 inch long and yellow with three black stripes. The stripes run lengthwise.
The second type of this pumpkin pest is the spotted cucumber beetle. These are the same size and yellow as well. Instead of stripes, they have 12 black spots on their wings. They are most active during warm weather.
Cucumber beetles prefer to feed on young pumpkin plants. You can avoid some of their damage by transplanting older plants. These will also withstand any feeding better than young sprouts. Row covers are also a good preventative action while your plants are young.
Mulching around your plants makes it harder for beetles to find the vines. Crop rotation also acts as a deterrent. These beetles have natural predators like birds, soldier beetles, and ground beetles. Encourage these with dill, fennel, and sweet alyssum.
Removing these pumpkin pests is tricky, as they are good at hiding. Early in the morning, they move slowly and are easier to knock off into a bowl of soapy water. Inspect the flowers, as this is a common place to hide.
Yellow sticky traps are a great resource. Place these around the bottom of the plant. Beetles are highly attracted to the color yellow and will stick to the traps. However, other beneficial insects can get caught in these.
Neem oil is a good deterrent, so you can spray it on your pumpkin plants. Make sure to dilute properly, or you’ll risk burning the foliage. Insecticidal soap is effective for larvae, but less so for adults.
Pickleworms

Pickleworms are serious pumpkin pests that show up late in the season. They are specific to the Southeastern U.S. These moth larvae tunnel into flowers, stems, and even fruits, ruining pumpkins before you know they are there.
These pests bore into blossoms, which reduces pollination. They stunt growth by boring into vines. The most destructive damage they cause is when the larvae bore into pumpkin rinds. They leave messy holes and open the fruit to rot and infections.
The adult form is a small, yellowish-brown moth with clear wings. They are nocturnal and lay eggs on buds, flowers, and young fruits. These eggs are tiny, white, and difficult to see. They can be single or laid in groups. The larvae are greenish with black spots and grow to about one inch at maturity. The larvae are the most damaging stage.
Avoid late plantings to avoid these pests. They prefer young fruits, so early planted pumpkins are less likely to be a target. Floating row covers are a good protectant, especially at night when the moths are active.
Neem oil spray can be an effective deterrent, though it’s not effective later on. Keep a close eye out for the holes they leave and remove and destroy affected tissue.
Once they move in, it’s difficult to eradicate pickleworms. If you see their holes and excrement, remove the affected foliage or fruits right away and destroy them. Remove pumpkins with entry holes as they are unlikely to recover.
Sometimes you can remove these manually, in a similar fashion to vine borers. It’s rarely practical, however. Encourage natural predators like birds and wasps to help control these pests. Always keep the area around your pumpkin vines clear of debris.
Whiteflies

Whiteflies are somewhat less serious pumpkin pests, but in large numbers, they can be destructive. These sap sucking relatives of aphids reproduce quickly. A large colony can be problematic. They can weaken plants and also spread diseases.
The eggs are almost invisible. They are commonly underneath leaves in neat circles or arcs. The nymphs are similar to scale insects. They’re small, pale green, and stick to the undersides of leaves.
The adults are much easier to identify. They are tiny, white, mothlike insects. They will flutter around in a cloud when you disturb the plant they are feeding on.
Generally, good sanitation is the best prevention. Cleaning up debris, removing weeds, and rotating crops will help prevent them to a degree. Floating row covers are also effective at deterring the adults.
Whiteflies have plenty of natural predators, so attracting beneficial insects is effective. Ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps are all predators of whiteflies. Plant things like dill, fennel, cosmos, and other nectar-rich flowers nearby.
I find yellow sticky traps very effective with whiteflies. They are attracted to yellow, and because they are so tiny, they stick easily. You can also spray neem oil or insecticidal oil if you need to.
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